Short surf film from Tofino’s Adam Chilton.
Missing home. City lyfe cuts both ways.
Commitment to the tube.
This is my home. Don’t let the oil companies fuck it up.
That was one of the best ‘guys’ weekends ever of my life. My friends are talented chefs, inspired sommeliers, brilliant artists, great surfers, not so good at poker (thanks for the $$ guys), super good at capers and shenanigans, and all around amazing people. So much abundance was manifest, it was unbelievable.
Now for a couple days of work and unwinding at the lake house. My own luck is hard to comprehend sometimes.
It’s kinda hard to tell from my shitty iPhone photo, but these waves were ridiculously good.
Also, Greame’s board decided to bite him in the face on a floater. 8 stitches (ow).
Gotta love when a surfboard shows some sings of actually having been used; so sick of seeing unwaxed boards propping as bedroom decorations. It’s a plank, get over it, or wax that puppy up and get to shredding, in the ocean. Don’t front.
My boards usually have six to ten months of crusty, nasty wax build up, so much so that they mostly live in the garage and definitely don’t make it into photos that often. So yeah, if you actually surf a lot, your boards end up looking like shit, and you’d rarely bother photographing such purely functional objects.
This little scene gives some indication that the kid actually shreds, but I’m still inclined to believe that taking photos of surfboards in ‘designy’ settings is straight kook behaviour.