That was one of the best ‘guys’ weekends ever of my life. My friends are talented chefs, inspired sommeliers, brilliant artists, great surfers, not so good at poker (thanks for the $$ guys), super good at capers and shenanigans, and all around amazing people. So much abundance was manifest, it was unbelievable.

Now for a couple days of work and unwinding at the lake house. My own luck is hard to comprehend sometimes.

It’s kinda hard to tell from my shitty iPhone photo, but these waves were ridiculously good.

Also, Greame’s board decided to bite him in the face on a floater. 8 stitches (ow).

Gotta love when a surfboard shows some sings of actually having been used; so sick of seeing unwaxed boards propping as bedroom decorations. It’s a plank, get over it, or wax that puppy up and get to shredding, in the ocean. Don’t front.

My boards usually have six to ten months of crusty, nasty wax build up, so much so that they mostly live in the garage and definitely don’t make it into photos that often. So yeah, if you actually surf a lot, your boards end up looking like shit, and you’d rarely bother photographing such purely functional objects. 

This little scene gives some indication that the kid actually shreds, but I’m still inclined to believe that taking photos of surfboards in ‘designy’ settings is straight kook behaviour. 

Turn & burn! It’s going to be a late drop, but I’d say go for it.

(Source: airows)

This morning, only slightly rainier. But basically, yeah. I love being back on the Island in winter!

via Nicole’s Pintrest.

SURFING I MISSED YOU! I’m so glad you’re back in my life.

After a hot yoga session yesterday, and a lovely little surf this afternoon my body’s feeling that good ache, and I’m so glad to be back to my active West Coast living. Four months of travelling hither and yon while not paying attention to fitness was enough. Not that I developed a gut or anything (god forbid), but I was definitely beginning to feel a tad squishy. Time to get ripped again!

Today’s session at Whiffenspit in Sooke was hilarious. That place never gets swell, but 5ft. at 20 seconds meant that it got right up into the straight. Long, sweet little peelers were the order of the day, with the sun shining and good mates around. So much fun, and perfect, gentle conditions for my first session back in the water.

It’s been a while since I’ve had a good surf :-/

(Source: airows)

This is our favorite surf spot on Vancouver Island.

Surfing was great. Perfect little 3ft. beach break just north of Lovekin Rock at Long Beach. No one out. The sun wasn’t exactly shining, but the water was warm and so was the air, and the fog had lifted, and there was a beautiful light from the sunset over towards Tofino.

Cox Bay, Tofino, Vancouver Island, BC, Canada. Monday March 5th, 2012.